{"id":254284,"date":"2025-06-12T13:45:45","date_gmt":"2025-06-12T03:45:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/?p=254284"},"modified":"2025-06-13T10:09:31","modified_gmt":"2025-06-13T00:09:31","slug":"jesse-wakenshaw-niche-perfumer-interview","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/jesse-wakenshaw-niche-perfumer-interview\/","title":{"rendered":"Jesse Wakenshaw on small batch perfumes and the most interesting fragrance he&#8217;s ever smelled"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>It was a friend of <em>RUSSH<\/em> (makeup artist <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/carlylim_makeup\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Carly Lim<\/a>) who led me to Jesse Wakenshaw on <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/jessewakenshawstudio\/?hl=en\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">Instagram<\/a>. It&#8217;s hard to quantify his work, but I&#8217;d describe him as an olfactory artist and creative who specialises in <a href=\"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/best-niche-perfume-brands\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">niche perfumes<\/a>. Her creates <a href=\"https:\/\/jessewakenshawstudio.com\/Olfactive\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">small batch fragrances<\/a>, but not the regular kind. His interest lies in unlikely combinations and unusual notes \u2014 things like synthetic animal musks, iris, tonka, hedione and jasmine rice. If you&#8217;re into under-the-radar fragrance, or want to explore something completely custom, Jesse is the person for the job.<\/p>\n<p>Beyond this, he is a fragrance industry buff and almost-historian. His favourite-ever fragrance, perfumer and details surrounding his own work and method, below.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>Tell me about your relationship with fragrance and scent \u2014 what initially sparked the interest?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">From a young age, I was drawn to the escapism of fragrance \u2014 the way a scent could transport me, awaken curiosity and evoke a sense of confidence I didn\u2019t always feel growing up. As a young man still discovering who I was, fragrance offered a quiet power: the ability to transform, stimulate, and provoke something deeper within. It became more than just a sensory experience for me, it was a form of self-expression.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>Are there any early scent-related memories you can share?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Traveling down the south coast, driving through quiet bushland before reaching a caravan park, and the caravan had been closed up since the last visit \u2014 damp, musty with the combination of plastic and vinyl wafting in the stagnant air. And then the smell of burning campfire but with a briny marine facet. Very\u00a0 nostalgic&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>So how did you get into perfume making and olfactory studies?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">It happened pretty seamlessly and quite naturally, but if I had to pinpoint it, I\u2019d say it really took off during the early COVID lockdowns. I became obsessed with researching olfactive profiles online, reading, collecting, absorbing everything I could. I started collecting raw materials and digging into how compositions work and how molecules interact.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span>Through that process, I came to understand that perfumery is an art form. There\u2019s no one right way to do it.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">As someone who\u2019s hyper-creative across multiple disciplines, it felt second nature to merge all those experiences together. Perfumery became this perfect meeting point \u2014 a place where everything I\u2019d done creatively could finally align.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-254409\" src=\"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/1-5-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>How would you describe your work and what you do now?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">A combination of scent and sculpture \u2014 often in various forms \u2014 acts as an apparatus to hold and release scent molecules. I explore the idea of adhering scent to specific objects in order to carry and convey a visceral experience to the viewer. That said, I\u2019m by no means bound to this approach. Some moments call for nothing more than a fleeting scent: an invisible language to communicate ideas.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">One common theme is that my work leans heavily on the psyche\u2014on how we perceive and experience scent at an emotional level.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>What\u2019s your creative process when you\u2019re making a perfume? Is there a unique method?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">It\u2019s a chaotic one! Sometimes it starts from a visual cue \u2014 something I see that triggers a feeling \u2014 but more often, it begins as a thought or idea in my head. Something abstract that I just need to smell.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">I start by sketching out potential materials. That usually means a table covered in paper blotters soaked with diluted aroma chemicals. It&#8217;s messy. There\u2019s constant sniffing, layering, second-guessing. A lot of overthinking, to be honest. But also&#8230; curiosity. This constant urge to see how something would work. Would this note completely clash with that one?<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">Then the doubting kicks in. Eventually, I\u2019ll commit to a formula and create a sample. Then I let it sit, macerate, do its thing. After that comes more evaluating, more rethinking, more time. It\u2019s never linear. It\u2019s often frustrating. But that\u2019s how it goes. It\u2019s not a clean process, but it\u2019s mine. Sometimes in all the chaos, something magic happens.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/reel\/DFJQC07z_Hw\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/reel\/DFJQC07z_Hw\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by @jessewakenshawstudio<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>What sort of notes or raw materials are you mostly drawn to?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">I\u2019m drawn to anything unusual or strange. There\u2019s something captivating about how an offbeat note or raw perfume material can blend with more traditionally \u201cpleasant\u201d ones. I love the contrast and the tension they create.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">That said, I do have my favourites. I\u2019m particularly captivated by the elegance of orris root, the green vibrancy of galbanum and the lusciousness of jasmine sambac. I also have a deep love for animalics, too: tonquitone, a synthetic deer musk, is a standout for me.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p3\">Rich, resinous materials like labdanum, benzoin, and olibanum (along with their synthetic counterparts) are staples in my work. And I can never resist a good cumin note. Oh, and patchouli. Always patchouli.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>What do you wear or how do you smell, day to day?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">I don\u2019t wear too much to be honest. Sometimes I will wear things I\u2019m experimenting with on skin. Occasionally I\u2019ll do a little mix in a tester atomiser and wear that. I now know to always write a formula down too, even if it is a spontaneous draft.<\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">But I smell slightly sweet, slightly salty&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<blockquote class=\"instagram-media\" style=\"background: #FFF; border: 0; border-radius: 3px; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 540px; min-width: 326px; padding: 0; width: calc(100% - 2px);\" data-instgrm-permalink=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DBvncSyTtSj\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" data-instgrm-version=\"14\">\n<div style=\"padding: 16px;\">\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; align-items: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 40px; margin-right: 14px; width: 40px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 100px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 60px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 19% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: block; height: 50px; margin: 0 auto 12px; width: 50px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"padding-top: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"color: #3897f0; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: 550; line-height: 18px;\">View this post on Instagram<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"padding: 12.5% 0;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: row; margin-bottom: 14px; align-items: center;\">\n<div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(0px) translateY(7px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; height: 12.5px; transform: rotate(-45deg) translateX(3px) translateY(1px); width: 12.5px; flex-grow: 0; margin-right: 14px; margin-left: 2px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; height: 12.5px; width: 12.5px; transform: translateX(9px) translateY(-18px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: 8px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 50%; flex-grow: 0; height: 20px; width: 20px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 2px solid transparent; border-left: 6px solid #f4f4f4; border-bottom: 2px solid transparent; transform: translateX(16px) translateY(-4px) rotate(30deg);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"margin-left: auto;\">\n<div style=\"width: 0px; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-right: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(16px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; flex-grow: 0; height: 12px; width: 16px; transform: translateY(-4px);\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"width: 0; height: 0; border-top: 8px solid #F4F4F4; border-left: 8px solid transparent; transform: translateY(-4px) translateX(8px);\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<div style=\"display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex-grow: 1; justify-content: center; margin-bottom: 24px;\">\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; margin-bottom: 6px; width: 224px;\"><\/div>\n<div style=\"background-color: #f4f4f4; border-radius: 4px; flex-grow: 0; height: 14px; width: 144px;\"><\/div>\n<\/div>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;\"><a style=\"color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none;\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/DBvncSyTtSj\/?utm_source=ig_embed&amp;utm_campaign=loading\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">A post shared by @jessewakenshawstudio<\/a><\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/blockquote>\n<p><script async src=\"\/\/www.instagram.com\/embed.js\"><\/script><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>What\u2019s the most interesting fragrance you\u2019ve ever come across?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">There\u2019s many! But Serge Lutens JEUX DE PEAU a warm interesting savoury gourmand which I believe is discontinued now.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><strong>What\u2019s your favourite perfume of all time?<\/strong><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">That&#8217;s a hard one.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span>Lanvin ARPEGE? Florals, aldehydes, juicy ripe fruits&#8230; It&#8217;s the old school Gothic Romanticism at its core for me.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-254410\" src=\"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"1920\" height=\"1080\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5.jpg 1920w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5-300x169.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5-1024x576.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5-1536x864.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.russh.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2025\/06\/2-5-1200x675.jpg 1200w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1920px) 100vw, 1920px\" \/><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><b><\/b><span class=\"s1\"><b>Last question, if you could meet with any perfumer, living or dead, who would it be and what would you ask them?<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/b><\/span><\/p>\n<p class=\"p1\">Sissel Tolaas! I\u2019d love to talk about pushing boundaries, watch them work in the lab, evaluate their ideas and see how they approach scent creation. I\u2019d ask them about the rarest scent they\u2019ve ever researched and what it was like to uncover something so unique. And of course, I\u2019d be curious about their favourite project they\u2019ve ever worked on.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n<style type=\"text\/css\">\n#ag_sc_newsletter { margin:3em 0 1em; }\n#ag_sc_newsletter .row_sc { overflow:hidden; }\n#ag_sc_newsletter.solo .col_half { width:auto; float:none; margin-bottom:2em; }\n#ag_sc_newsletter .col_half h3 { text-align:center !important; }\n#ag_sc_newsletter .col_half h3.icon { margin-bottom:0.75em; }\n#ag_sc_newsletter .col_half h3.icon i { font-size:inherit !important; }\n#ag_sc_s { background:#fff; color:#000; text-align:center; border:solid 1px #000; padding:6em 3em; margin:0 1em; }\n#ag_sc_s h3 { margin-bottom:1em !important; }\n#main article .entry-content #ag_sc_s ul { font-size:14px; }\n#ag_sc_s ul { overflow:hidden; list-style-type:none; text-align:center; display:inline-block; }\n#ag_sc_s ul li { float:left; list-style-type:none; margin:0 0.5em; }\n#ag_sc_s ul li i { font-size:2.4em !important; }\n<\/style>\n<div id=\"ag_sc_newsletter\" class=\"solo\">\n  <div class=\"row_sc\">\n    <div id=\"ag_sc_s\" class=\"col_half\">\n      <h3>Stay inspired, follow us.<\/h3>\n      <ul>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/russhmagazine\/\"><i class=\"fa fa-instagram\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.tiktok.com\/@russhmagazine\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"russh_svg\" src=\"\/wp-content\/themes\/russh\/img\/tiktok-brands-solid.png\" alt=\"RUSSH TikTok icon\" height=\"30\" style=\"max-height:30px;\" \/><\/a><\/li>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/RusshMagazine\/\"><i class=\"fa fa-facebook\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.pinterest.com.au\/russhaustralia\/\"><i class=\"fa fa-pinterest\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/www.youtube.com\/user\/Russhmag\"><i class=\"fa fa-youtube\" aria-hidden=\"true\"><\/i><\/a><\/li>\n        <li><a target=\"_blank\" href=\"https:\/\/x.com\/russh_magazine\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"russh_svg\" src=\"\/wp-content\/themes\/russh\/img\/x-twitter-brands-solid.png\" alt=\"RUSSH X icon\" height=\"30\" style=\"max-height:30px;\" \/><\/a><\/li>\n      <\/ul>\n    <\/div>\n  <\/div> \n<\/div>\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The coolest niche perfumer you&#8217;ve probably never heard of.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":58,"featured_media":254411,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[2,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-254284","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-beauty","category-beauty-bag"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v26.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Australian perfumer Jesse Wakenshaw on niche fragrances<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Australian niche perfumer Jesse Wakenshaw on creating vintage-inspired, interesting fragrances. 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