Like most trends, this one is cyclical. Using gold in skincare is not a new invention. In ancient Egypt, gold masks where long used as a complexion remedy. It was an apparent favourite of Cleopatra. There’s also evidence to show that gold was used in ancient China to treat scarring and skin ulcers. It’s now reemerged as a trend in Western society as Western science has shown that gold does actually have some strong skincare benefits. In particular, its ability to increase the absorption of other active ingredients into the deeper layers of the skin.

“The science is encouraging,” says Vanessa Gray Lyndon, Founder Vanessa Megan Skincare. As an organic and natural skincare brand, Vanessa Megan Skincare has turned to natural ingredients like gold for its topical benefits.

“There’s also ongoing research into gold nanoparticles helping carry ingredients deeper and calm the skin, with the usual caveat that size, coating and proper cosmeticgrade sourcing really matter,” she said.

Below, Gray dives into gold’s application in skincare. How is compares to other active ingredients and exactly why it’s slowly becoming such a favourite ingredient across cosmetic formulations.

Gold has been used in beauty rituals for centuries. How it first became associated with skincare?

Gold’s beauty story started with symbolism and spectacle—think Cleopatra myths, Edoperiod rituals and European courts using gold foils and balms for glow and “preservation.” It was more ritual than science back then.

Today, it shows up in two main ways: as pure 24k leaf or flakes you press over a serum for instant radiance and a soothing, inert finish, and as colloidal or nanosized gold mixed into serums and creams. The modern take is practical as well as pretty—gold is stable, plays nicely with other actives, and gives that softfocus glow. There’s also ongoing research into gold nanoparticles helping carry ingredients deeper and calm the skin, with the usual caveat that size, coating and proper cosmeticgrade sourcing really matter.

What does the scientific evidence currently say about gold’s efficacy in skincare?

The science is encouraging. Smaller clinical and lab studies show antioxidant and calming effects, with promising work on colloidal and nano gold helping deliver other actives. Big, longterm trials for gold alone are still coming, but the everyday wins—instant glow, smoother feel, and supportive benefits alongside vitamin C, peptides and hydrators—are solid.

We added gold into the Vanessa Megan range because we saw consistent results: calmer skin, better makeup laydown, and that immediate radiance. Pure, Europeansourced 24k gold is inert and gentle, so it layers seamlessly. We use it as a smart booster—clean, cosmeticgrade, and designed to elevate your routine without fuss.

What are the primary skin concerns that gold is said to address?

The first and most noticeable benefits of our 25k Gold Leaf Sheets are instant radiance via light reflection, visible calming of redness thanks to its inert nature, and supportive benefits for tone and firmness over time when used within a solid routine. It also helps makeup sit more smoothly after application.

How does gold compare to more traditional actives like vitamin C, retinol, or hyaluronic acid in terms of results?

It’s a supportive co-star rather than a replacement. Vitamin C, retinoids and acids have stronger evidence for pigmentation, collagen and texture; hyaluronic acid is a proven hydrator. Gold adds sensorial appeal, mild antioxidant and calming effects, and immediate glow.

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Are there particular forms of gold that are more effective or safer for topical use?

Pure 24k leaf/flakes are inert and generally well tolerated when layered over serums or oils. Colloidal gold and well engineered nanoparticles can integrate into formulas and may aid delivery, but safety and performance depend on particle size, coating and purity. Always look for cosmetic or food-grade certification; avoid imitation “gold” made from brass alloys.

What makes gold an attractive ingredient for formulators compared to other luxury skincare actives?

It’s stable, nonreactive and instantly signals luxury without added fragrance or colour. It improves spreadability, encourages massage, plays well with mainstream actives (vitamin C, niacinamide, peptides, ceramides) and delivers both theatre and a gentle functional boost.

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In this instance of LED light therapy, truth is stranger than fiction. Yes, these light waves can indeed have a therapeutic benefit for the skin. But that doesn’t mean that every LED light mask on the market will give you the same results. If you’re interested in buying one for yourself, here’s what you need to know.

What are LED light masks and how do they work?

LED stands for light-emitting diode. LED treatments are a common in-spa treatment thanks to clinical grade LED panels, but of course in recent years, this technology has been translated into a consumer-grade mask which can be easily used at home.

LED can target and improve a range of skin concerns; it works by penetrating the skin to spark changes at a molecular level. Though different light wavelengths and colours do different things. The most commonly used light spectrums are red, blue and yellow:

Do they actually produce results? And are LED masks safe?

The claims can sound too good to be true. So, does LED actually work? Especially in mask form? The good news is, yes, LED light masks have been scientifically proven to improve the skin in a number of ways. But the efficacy is all about the concentration of light and not all masks have enough light or the correct wavelengths to be effective. For further clarity, we spoke to skin expert and DermapenWorld treatment consultant Renata Battestin on what it takes to see a therapeutic benefit from an LED light mask.

“For optimal therapeutic results, both light intensity and wavelength precision are essential,” said Battestin.

“We recommend a 633nm wavelength for therapeutic healing benefits, and deeper penetrating 830nm and 1070nm wavelengths for full anti-ageing benefits,” she said. “When these are used together, these wavelengths create a synergising rejuvenation effect.”

The concentration of this light is especially critical to delivering results. Even if the wavelength is right, if the mask is not bright enough, it won’t work effectively. For red light the optimal irradiance range is 25-120 milliwatts/CM2; for blue its 3-30 milliwatts/CM2 and for yellow its 40-150 milliwatts/CM2.

The scientific consensus is that LED masks are safe to use. In fact, there are a number that are TGA-approved in Australia.

How long and how often do you need to use an LED mask to get the benefits?

The good news is that even just one session with a mask that has the right wavelength and irradiance levels can improve the skin.

“A single 10-minute session leaves your skin feeling plumper, more hydrated and refreshed, with visibly improved dark spots and pigmentation,” said Battestin. “These results improve with repeated use, with many reporting noticeable results after one month.”

After four weeks of three 10-minute sessions per week Dermapenworld’s studies showed:

Which LED Masks are the best?

When choosing an LED mask, finding one with therapeutic wavelengths and irradiance levels will give you the best chance of seeing results.

An easy way to tell which ones will have actual skin benefits  – if you don’t have time to check the milliwatts per square centimetre – is to just check which masks have TGA- or FDA-approved therapeutic claims. Below you’ll find a list.

Omnilux Contour Face

FDA and TGA approved

FOREO FAQ 202

FDA approved

MZ Skin LightMax SuperCharged LED 2.0 Mask

FDA approved

CurrentBody LED Red Light Therapy Face Mask: Series 2

TGA approved

Therabody Theraface LED Mask

TGA registered

Sonna LED Face Mask 

FDA approved

Trudermal Light Therapy Mask 

TGA and FDA approved

Dr Dennis Gross Spectralite Facewear Pro

TGA approved

Airyday Bright On LED Face Mask

TGA approved

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But I’m happy to report that there’s a new sheriff in town. Or rather, on the marble-slick corners of Athens and the cobblestoned backstreets of the Greek islands. This isn’t the minimalist, clinically-backed France of A313 creams and Biologique Recherche toners. Greek pharmacies are a different temple entirely: botanical products, made with pure ingredients, often edible-sounding. Think olive oil, propolis, bee pollen and mastiha – the same ingredients you’d find on your plate or in your glass, bottled for your face and body.

Greek pharmacies brim with homegrown heroes like Korres, Apivita and The Naxos Apothecary, yet you’ll still find all your French (and occasionally Korean) classics. Apivita’s leave-in conditioner has repeatedly resurrected my salt-encrusted hair, while a trusted insider tip finally put to rest a lifelong search for the perfect eyeliner (and at just eight euros!). As if you needed another reason to book a trip to Greece, consider the below roundup of the best Greek pharmacy brands, and their greatest hits, your official nudge.

Apivita

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Apivita is ubiquitous in Greece, but don’t let that fool you into thinking it’s generic. The brand was started by two pharmacists and leans hard into bee products and Greek herbs like calendula, thyme, propolis. The aforementioned Leave-In Conditioner with Hyaluronic Acid & Honey lives in my beach bag, and their travel-sized face masks are ideal if you’ve packed a tight edit of beauty products.

Korres

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Korres has long since crossed into global territory, but it still feels distinctly Greek. Born from a homeopathic pharmacy in Athens in 1996, it toes the line between clinical and botanical, with a surprising amount of range: cleansers, serums, body oils, remarkably good nail polish. The Greek Yoghurt Nourishing Probiotic Gel-Cream is one of my favourite products on planet Earth, and the Volcanic Minerals Twist Eyeshadow, recommended by a friend’s makeup artist friend, is an excellent way to spend eight euros, with its creamy and long-lasting formulation.

Elsewhere, the Pure Greek Olive Oil range was an impeccable recommendation from Greek aficionado Pasta Mama. You can use it on body, face and hair to bring your salt-rinsed everything back to life. (he shampoo and conditioner from that line are also great). Stock up at their flagship in Athens before you hightail it to the islands.

The Naxos Apothecary

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Walking into The Naxos Apothecary outpost in Athens is the closest I’ve come to heaven. A visual and olfactory wonder, the homeopathic space is a concept store in the truest sense of the word with its slick interiors, upstairs cafe and sky-high shelves stacked with scent-driven skincare, teas, oils and tinctures inspired by different Greek islands. The staff are kind and generous with their time, more than happy to talk at length about ingredient sourcing or offer tailored recommendations based on your skin type and scent profile. If you’re lucky, they’ll hand you an iced tea while you pile products into your basket. I am clinically obsessed with their Chalki body balm, inspired by the Dodecanese island, and made using Helichrysum Italicum extract with a lingering citrus scent.

Papoutsanis

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Founded in 1870, Papoutsanis is one of Greece’s oldest soap makers. It’s utilitarian but beautifully made: bar soaps, body washes and hair products centred around olive oil and Greek botanicals. The pricing makes it feel almost suspiciously affordable, but the formulas will soothe any concerns.

Frezyderm

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The cult Sun Screen Velvet Face Cream Spf50+ was my gateway drug to Frezyderm: matte, smooth, a little heavy for everyday wear at the beach, but great under makeup. Their whitening toothpaste is also worth picking up when you inevitably run out of your tube mid-trip.

Youth Lab

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Athens-based and dermatologist-formulated, Youth Lab focuses on actives – think peptides, retinol, exfoliating acids – and sits somewhere between The Ordinary and La Roche-Posay, but with a Greek feel. The Peptides Eye Cream is a classic and the Retinol Reboot range is a strong option for smoothing and evening skin tone.

Olive Era

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Made in Crete and based, as the name would suggest, on olive oil. The body lotions are lightweight and the shampoo has a satisfying herbal scent. The Mountain Tea line is the one: green, resinous and transportive.

Messinian Spa

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Body care from the Peloponnese that centres olive oil but leans into fruit: fig, prickly pear, pomegranate. The body milks and oils are generously scented and easy to find in most pharmacies. The packaging isn’t the chicest, but that feels negligible when you smell like a freshly-ripened fig.

Froika

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A longstanding yet underrated clinical Greek brand. The Azelaic Acid Cream is its best-known product, often used for post-inflammatory pigmentation and redness, and the SPF range is mineral, fragrance-free and specifically made for compromised skin. The plain packaging points to its function-forward formulations, and you won’t see it anywhere outside of Greece, so stock up while you can.

Feature image courtesy Faithfull.

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Naturally, there are many products on the market, and finding the best ones without spending hundreds on trial and error is near impossible. A tip that I learned from Medik8 founder Daniel Isaacs is to look at the colour. Effective retinol products should always have a yellow or pink tone, otherwise the percentage may not be high enough. The other way to find a decent retinol? Word of mouth recommendations of course.

As someone with an oily skin type, I’ve used my fair share of retinol, retinal and vitamin A skin products. While there are many effective formulas, only a handful truly offer that glassy, bouncy complexion without drying out your skin. Based on the products that I’ve tried and loved over the years, here my selection of the best retinol creams and serums.

1. Dermalogica Dynamic Skin Retinol Serum

This is a long-standing favourite of mine. It is a stronger product, so best used by individuals who are no younger than 25 or who have visible signs of ageing. It does an excellent job at perfecting without compromising the skin barrier. I could use this every night without my skin drying out.

Best for: those aged 25+ or seasoned retinol users

2. Medik8 Crystal Retinal

This product is a retinal, not a retinol. It’s still under the vitamin A umbrella but its one step further down the chain towards retinoic acid – meaning its stronger. So, if you are switching between retinol and retinal, remember the percentages don’t convert equally. 1% retinal is much stronger than 1% retinol.

The Medik8 Crystal Retinal range is excellent. It has a few different strength options so you can customise your experience based on your skin type and sensitivity. I love the strength 6 option (but start lower if you’re a first time user). This one is particularly good for combatting acne.

Best for: everyone, there are different strengths

3. Skinstitut EXPERT Reveal Retinol Face Oil

While I do also like the retinol in the regular Skinstitut range, this one is a higher percentage. The original one is 0.25%, a great option for younger individuals or those with sensitive skin. But this one, the Face Oil in the expert range is equivalent to 0.9%. It packs more of a punch. I love the dewy, oil formulation – I love in winter when my skin is a bit drier.

Best for: seasoned retinol users

4. Rationale #6 The Night Creme

This peachy-toned cream is an all-in-one solution. I love it for travel when you don’t have the space for multiple products. It has both retinol and retinal plus enzymes for exfoliation and a calming complex to preserve the skin integrity. While Rationale does not indicate the strength of the percentage in this product, I believe it’s somewhere in the middle. If you’re new to retinol products, you might need to build up a tolerance or only use this every second night until you can tolerate it.

Best for: everyone

5. Allies of Skin Retinal & Peptides Repair Night Cream

I’ve used this on and off for a few years and it’s great. I think the potency of the product relative to the price point is very fair, too. The inclusion of peptides means its a great product for targeting volume loss and skin laxity. As an encapsulated formula, its easier to tolerate this retinal if you have sensitive skin. It also means it’s more stable and will last longer once you’ve opened the bottle.

Best for: seasoned retinol users with sensitive skin

6. Synergie Skin Acceler-A

Synergie Skin has a few retinol products in its range but this is the most powerful. I would not recommend this one if you’re new to the vitamin A umbrella. But if your skin is already tolerant to vitamin A, the results from this one are excellent. My skin always feels glassy after using this.

Best for: seasoned retinol users

7. Esmi encapsulated retinol range

These products are great for those who are starting a retinol journey. There are four levels that allow you to start low and slow and work up – or jump straight to a level four like I did. Since its encapsulated, it will be much better tolerated by those with more sensitive skin. I think this range is particularly good for those looking to combat spots and acne. The different strength options and the calming ingredients mean its suitable for younger individuals trying to manage breakouts. Although, of course you get the anti-ageing benefits too!

Best for: retinol beginners who want to work up

8. Paula’s Choice Retinol Booster

Paula’s Choice is a brand known for its high quality ingredients, so I will always have an inherent level of trust. What I really like about this product? It’s just a retinol, no extras, no added botanicals. Just retinol. So, if you’re on a prescriptive regime with lots of other actives, this is perfect. If you already have peptides or vitamin Cs elsewhere in your routine, you can add this product without worrying about doubling up. It does exactly what it says on the tin and means you can completely customise your routine.

Best for: those with a complex skincare routine

9. Alpha-H Beauty Sleep Power Peel

This is a product I’ll never take it on a summer holiday. It really does leave you feeling like you’ve woken up with a new face, absolutely do not go in the sun the following day. In addition to 0.5% retinol, it does have a high concentration of glycolic acid for that exfoliating effect, so I wouldn’t recommend if you are intolerant to acids. But if you have the right skin to tolerate this product, it’s excellent for an overnight refresh. It’s currently in my routine and I use it once or twice a week.

Best for: oily skin and seasoned retinol users

10. Glossier Universal Pro-Retinol Overnight Renewing Treatment

Glossier’s answer to retinol isn’t as high-powered as other products on the market, it’s why this one is my travel retinol. It’s just strong enough to keep your skin clear and happy, but without sensitising your skin to the point that you have to stay inside with the curtains drawn. Obviously, you still need to wear a strong SPF after use. But this is a product that doesn’t prohibit me from enjoying summer weather.

Best for: beginners and for summertime use

How did we choose our best retinols?

These are all products that I’ve tried personally over my 15 years working as a lifestyle and beauty writer. I always take pictures of and note down any products that performed well on my skin. This selection of 10 creams, serums and emulsions are the products that offered me the best results in terms of clarity, texture and resilience.

What else do you need to know about retinol?

Retinol can travel under the skin

If you’re avoiding a certain area of the face like the eye area, make sure you give a 5-10mm gap as the product can travel once it penetrates the skin.

Retinol and retinal are different

They sound the same but are quite different. When you apply retinol, it turns to retinal, which then turns to retinoic acid. Retinal is a step further down the chain towards a compound your body and skin can use. It means that a 1% retinal is far more potent than a 1% retinol.

So why don’t all brands just use retinal? Well, it’s hard to stabilise and can cause more skin sensitivity. It means retinal products can be more expensive as it requires more technology to formulate it.

You can tell retinol quality by the colour

Effective, high-percentage retinols will be yellow in colour. If they have extra ingredients and botanicals, they can be pink or peach in colour too.

Retinol products can make your skin more sensitive – especially to the sun

If you’re using a retinol, you will a high-quality sunscreen to protect your skin from the sun. Retinol is designed to help expose more new and fresh skin, and this new skin will be more sensitive to the weather, dryness, other types of skincare and more. You can mitigate any sensitivity by introducing a barrier cream.

Feature images: Kristina Yenko and Hannah Scott-Stevenson

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When I started breaking out at the age of 10, my mother and I took to the supermarket skincare aisle, stocking up on Clean and Clear ‘morning burst’ cleanser (yes, the one with the allusive beads), T.N. Dickinson’s witch hazel and QV moisturiser. Tea tree oil was all the rage back then – every night before bed, I would dab tea tree oil on my acne, the smell simultaneously invigorating and nauseating.

To no one’s surprise, none of these products did much for my skin. My parents, befuddled by the ineffectiveness of their unresearched Woolworths products, turned to Chinese medicine and acupuncture for answers. I drank bitter potions steeped with various white roots and medicinal-scented barks every morning and on the weekend, I laid on squeaky plastic beds with thin needles sticking out of my torso. After months of these routines, we gave up on treating my acne. My parents hoped it was a hormonal phase that would eventually pass.

“My emotional attachment to the products, the science and the ritual of it all grew stronger with each purchase.”

Luckily, this was the case. Despite the gradual reversal of several years of red, scabby pimples (courtesy of oral contraceptive Microgynon30), I still committed to my skincare. It was driven by a quasi-superstitious fear that if I stopped washing my face for one day, all the spots would return immediately.

At the end of high school, I invested my own money into upgrading my routine – bottles of BHA and AHA, chemical peel (specifically the red, viscous The Ordinary peel that was technically banned in Australia) and hyaluronic acid. I consumed content from various dermatologists and skincare influencers, treating the information as if it was a case study and I was the subject. My emotional attachment to the products, the science and the ritual of it all grew stronger with each purchase. No wonder the global skincare industry is worth $120bn.

“On the rare occasion I feel stressed, my routine becomes more experimental. Some people bake when they’re stressed… but when I’m under the pump, my face goes through the wringer.”

At the risk of self-pathologising, my best guess is that my personal hyper-consumerist and hyper-fixative behaviour was a coping mechanism for years of not being in control of my face and body – use this, wear this, drink this, lie here, sleep more, don’t touch your face.

These days, I am loyal to only four products (La Roche Posay Effaclar Purifying Cleanser, Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream, Kiehl’s Retinol Serum and Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Face Lotion Sunscreen). On the rare occasion I feel stressed, my routine becomes more experimental. Some people bake when they’re stressed (is it the self hatred-fuelled precise measuring or the fact that one can indulge in 25 hot, fresh shortbreads as a distraction?), but when I’m under the pump, my face goes through the wringer: a “deep” cleanse (an extra minute or two than usual) followed by a clay mask (for that weird tight feeling when it dries), a half-assed attempt at squeezing out my blackheads, a random toner (I don’t use toner but have amassed a collection of samples) and my trusty Kiehl’s retinol and cream (an obvious answer).

I relish in touching my face, staring into my pores and plucking my eyebrows – especially if I have a writing deadline. This routine isn’t for clearer or more beautiful skin but makes me feel more in control and physically real. Is it a healthy mechanism? That much is unclear but at least I’m not using Clean and Clear anymore.

The post How skincare became my de-stressing ritual appeared first on RUSSH.

And yet, sensitivity and its related symptoms – redness, warmth, irritation, chronic flare-ups – are more prevalent than ever. It correlates to skincare maximalism, increased screen time, urban living and chronic stress levels. But is it causational? And is there comfort to be found in modern science, ancient wisdom, or a bit of both?

In a study conducted by The Journal of Women’s Health and Development of 20,000 females aged between 18 and 55, more than half claimed their skin was sensitive. “I see sensitive skin, or hear of sensitivity-related skin concerns, daily,” shares Clare McColl, a facialist and the owner of Sydney skin clinic Fenn. “It’s not just a fleeting trend – clients present with symptoms like redness, heat retention, breakouts and inflammation all the time,” she adds. “Sometimes it’s chronic sensitivity, and other times it’s more of a temporary, sensitised state thanks to environmental stress or a routine that’s way too excessive.”

Categorically, sensitive skin isn’t an official medical diagnosis. It exists on a spectrum. “Sensitive skin has historically been used as more of a descriptive term but is increasingly recognised as a skin subtype,” explains Dr Prasanthi Puru, a cosmetic doctor and GP. “It’s defined by heightened reactivity to internal and external aggressors or triggers like topical skincare, weather and temperature, stress, UV exposure and pollution. These people have chronic issues with their skin that’s usually predisposed by genetics, nerve hypersensitivity, immune mediated inflammation and impaired skin barrier function.”

“As someone deep in the skincare zeitgeist, I hear of it all the time. Friends will text for routine advice, and when I ask if they have any concerns, the response is always, ‘I’m sensitive’ or ‘My skin always reacts’.” 

This differs from sensitisation, or a state of temporary reactivity that can afflict anyone, at any time. “Usually, sensitised skin involves a compromise to the barrier, enabling irritants to penetrate the skin more easily, resulting in an inflammatory response,” Dr Prasanthi adds. “Symptoms are sometimes the same as those experiencing chronic sensitivity, but the difference is that sensitised skin can quickly recover. The main culprits are usually things like excessive acids or retinol, exposure to environmental triggers and some in-clinic procedures like peels, ablative lasers, microneedling and microdermabrasion.”

And then there’s diagnosable conditions, like rosacea or dermatitis. “Both of these are long-term conditions that involve sensitivity, but their underlying causes and symptoms differ,” Dr Prasanthi says. Eczema, or Atopic Dermatitis, is an intensely itchy condition influenced by genetics and environmental factors. “About 70 per cent of people with eczema have a strong family history of it.” Rosacea, which often looks like an intense blush, involves immune drama, neurovascular hyperreactivity and microbial triggers. “Genetics also play a part, while UV rays, stress, wine, spicy foods, and temperature changes are known triggers,” adds Dr Prasanthi.

As someone deep in the skincare zeitgeist, I hear of it all the time. Friends will text for routine advice, and when I ask if they have any concerns, the response is always, ‘I’m sensitive’ or ‘My skin always reacts’. During a recent interview with makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench, she explained that her Microbial Gel Primer was formulated because she constantly experienced models with red, bumpy skin. The virality of French skincare, specifically TikTok products like La Roche-Posay Cicaplast or Avene Cicalfate, has everything to do with the fact the products are focused on calming and soothing. The boom of dermatological drugstore brands such as CeraVe, Cetaphil and QV is another example.

“But based on expert opinion, the excessive use of skincare is almost certainly a factor. Serum layering, exfoliation, cycling retinol — curating a routine has never been so complicated.”

Despite the overload of information, pinpointing exactly ‘why’ your skin is suffering can be fruitless. TikTok and Reddit serve up countless potential triggers: incorrect skincare, bad weather, hard water, mould illness, gut issues, hormonal imbalances, stress, fungal infections, not cleansing enough, cleansing too much, washing powder, pollen, medication, menopause, perimenopause, pregnancy… There are thousands of proclaimed ‘miracle cures’, and yet no one can figure it out.

But based on expert opinion, the excessive use of skincare is almost certainly a factor. Serum layering, exfoliation, cycling retinol – curating a routine has never been so complicated. Look at the pandemic. The 10-steps were elaborate and thrilling at the time, but very few of us actually came out glowing on top.

“I always recommend a less-is-more approach for both sensitive and sensitised skin,” shares skin expert and facialist Melanie Grant. “Opt for a simple routine, using gentle products free of irritants like fragrance and essential oils. Avoid harsh scrubs, cleansing brushes and too many active ingredients.”

It’s difficult to do within an industry that’s obsessed with newness, but our skin is a functioning organ that carries out its own biological processes. Skincare should support these, not go against them. “I believe in less is more, not as a trend but as a grounding principle,” adds McColl. “Sensitive or sensitised skin doesn’t need complexity – it needs consistency, simplicity and a whole lot of barrier love. When the skin is in distress, your goal should be to reduce inflammation, calm heat and restore balance.”

A skincare diet can be a useful place to start: a simple cleanser free from alcohol and foaming agents, soothing moisture and sunscreen. Dr Prasanthi recommends ceramides, squalane, niacinamide at a concentration of two to five per cent, panthenol, oat, centella asiatica, pre- and probiotics as ingredients to reach for. Adversely, she suggests exercising caution around fragrance (natural or synthetic), alcohols, alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids that aren’t buffered or microencapsulated. ‘Clean beauty’ is another contention point: “Ironically, formulations free of preservatives like parabens may rely on potential irritants, such as essential oils, to extend shelf life.”

There are, however, some natural ingredients known to nurture and rebalance skin health, as nature intended. “I love turmeric and sea buckthorn for anti-inflammatory support,” McColls tells RUSSH. She also believes in manuka honey. “The Activist Manuka Honey Mask soothes inflammation and promotes skin repair, it’s so healing and a personal favourite of mine. I use it all the time.”

“It’s difficult to do within an industry that’s obsessed with newness, but our skin is a functioning organ that carries out its own biological processes. Skincare should support these, not go against them.”

Interestingly, in the case of Perioral Dermatitis – a common condition that includes a rash around the mouth – it’s often worth cutting back on face oils. “I see this pitfall all the time,” explains McColl. “While oils can be incredibly nourishing, in some cases – particularly when heat and inflammation are already present – they can trap warmth in the skin and exacerbate the issue.”

Of course, there’s always exceptions to the rule – personalised expertise is best.

So, what about our lives? Does being busy, tired, glued to our phones and living in cities have something to do with it? “Research indicates that factors such as prolonged screen time, pollution, frequent travel and chronic stress disrupt the skin’s barrier function, amplify oxidative damage and trigger inflammatory pathways, all of which exacerbate skin sensitivity,” confirms Dr Prasanthi. “While the long-term effects are still being explored, dermatologists have actually noted a correlation between high screen usage and increased reports of skin sensitivity, particularly in urban populations.”

It’s important to note that it’s not just external stimuli that can trigger or worsen sensitivity. “Ultimately, sensitive skin is complex and deeply individual – so it’s always worth looking beyond the surface for the root cause,” McColl adds. “Medications that affect gut health are a lesser-known trigger – because the skin and gut are closely linked, any imbalance in your microbiome can present externally as redness, breakouts or flares. Similarly, coming off hormonal contraception can cause major shifts in oil production, barrier function and reactivity.” Even autoimmune conditions like Lupus can contribute. In this case, it’s essential to look towards trusted healthcare practitioners, while supporting your skin with very few, but high-quality products.

“Overloading our skin and our minds can’t be good. Sleeplessness and nervous tension manifest as physical ailments. Excessive screen time rarely leads to an overarching sense of wellness. It’s okay to enjoy the good life, but everything in moderation.”

We obviously can’t avoid screens, stress and the air around us. But we can course correct with selective skincare and a healthy lifestyle. One high tech skin trend that is deemed very effective is LED light therapy. “It is one of the gentlest, most effective tools for calming reactive skin,” explains McColl. “A combination of red and near-infrared light helps reduce inflammation, support the skin barrier, and encourage healing on a cellular level – all without heat or downtime. Unlike many other treatments, LED is something we can safely recommend even during flare-ups, because of its ability to soothe and strengthen from the inside out.”

On some sort of deeper level, we probably know a lot of this. Overloading our skin and our minds can’t be good. Sleeplessness and nervous tension manifest as physical ailments. Excessive screen time rarely leads to an overarching sense of wellness. It’s okay to enjoy the good life, but everything in moderation. Giving our skin space to breathe, rest and reset at its own pace can’t hurt. McColl says it best: “I always hear from clients when they come back from a holiday, and their skin is the best it’s been because they only packed a few things.” Consider a pause-and-observe approach: simplify your routine, allow your skin to settle and reintroduce products slowly to identify what truly serves you. Skincare is restorative and the rituals are meant to be savoured, but there’s no need to do too much.

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Beneath the sharp sun and elemental wilds of Aotearoa, skincare brand RAAIE emerged from a clear, compelling premise: if the sun is responsible for up to 80 per cent of visible skin ageing, then skincare should be built to meet it. The brainchild of New Zealander Katey Mandy, the brand was founded on a deceptively simple yet radical idea: to care for skin in rhythm with nature, guided by the daily cycles of light and dark. The result is a minimalist, science-led range that blends cosmeceutical efficacy with the untamed resilience of New Zealand botanicals.

After years immersed in the fast-paced beauty and fashion scenes of London and New York, Mandy returned home to find inspiration not in trends, but in terrain. New Zealand’s native plants, she observed, flourish under some of the highest UV levels on Earth. To survive, they’ve evolved potent self-protective systems – producing unusually high concentrations of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. “It’s like they’ve created their own plant sunblock,” Mandy explains. “That resilience was something I knew could be translated into skincare – intelligent, biologically attuned, and grounded in our natural environment.”

“New Zealand’s botanicals aren’t just natural,” she continues. “They’re active. They’ve developed high levels of antioxidants to defend themselves under intense solar conditions. That capacity to protect and regenerate became the starting point.”

Since launching in 2022, RAAIE has quietly built a loyal following, drawn to its sculptural packaging, high-performance formulas and reverent approach to nature. Its botanicals – Mamaku black fern, Mānuka, Kawakawa and more – are not only potent but carry deep cultural significance within Aotearoa. Paired with next-generation actives, they create a synergy between ancient wisdom and modern science.

RAAIE’s two essential products, Morning Dew Vitamin C Serum and Yellow Moonbeam Retinal Elixir, are designed to align with the body’s circadian rhythm – supporting the skin’s natural cycle of defence in the morning and repair in the evening. Morning Dew brightens and shields with a dual form of vitamin C, alpine rosehip, blackcurrant and marine algae. In contrast, Yellow Moonbeam works while you rest, harnessing encapsulated retinal, bakuchiol, vitamin E, niacinamide and native Harakeke to smooth, refine and restore. Together, they offer a pared-back ritual that’s both intuitive and deeply potent.

“RAAIE is the antithesis of trend-driven beauty,” Mandy notes. “It’s about returning to ritual, about letting the skin lead.” And that ethos extends beyond the bottle. Earlier this year, RAAIE led a national campaign urging the New Zealand government to remove GST from sunscreen, advocating for better access to sun protection in a region with a disproportionately high rate of UV-related skin damage.

RAAIE’s system is pared back by design. It doesn’t call for ten steps or complex layering. Instead, it distills skincare into two calibrated moments: defence and restoration. “We’re not interested in fleeting trends,” Mandy says. “RAAIE is about long-term skin health. It’s about using what already works – from both science and nature – and applying it with precision.”

Now, the brand enters a bold new chapter. This month, it becomes the first New Zealand skincare brand to launch with global beauty giant Sephora – arriving across all stores in Australia and New Zealand, as well as online. It’s a defining moment, one that places Aotearoa’s botanical intelligence firmly on the global stage and affirms RAAIE’s growing resonance within the luxury skincare space.

And with growing recognition and expanded availability, RAAIE’s influence is quietly scaling – but its heart remains anchored in its origins. It is skincare designed not just to treat, but to listen. To follow the body’s innate rhythms. To honour the land it comes from. And in doing so, to offer skin that is not only visibly radiant, but innately resilient.

You can shop the full skincare range on the RAAIE website.

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Still on the hunt for the right products for you? I’ve narrowed down the best in skincare systems for acne-prone skin. Whether you have teenage skin or hormonal breakouts, these are the brands that have dedicated formulations to tame problem complexions.

1. Swisse Balance Range

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Australian wellness brand Swisse developed its targeted Balance Range in collaboration with dermatologists – not just cosmetic formulators. The range includes a suite of products designed to breakdown oily build-ups, but also soothe the skin after the active ingredients have done their work. The hero product of the Balance Range? The Blemish Remedy, is a fast acting drying serum.

2. Dermalogica Clear Start and Active Clearing

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Trusted for decades (and a favourite of the RUSSH Editors), Dermalogica actually has two dedicated oily skin regimes. The first, Clear Start, is a range designed for acne-prone teenage skin. The formulations focus on drying, clearing and nourishing problem skin, whilst understanding that teenage skin can be more sensitive to intense active ingredients. Active Clearing on the other hand is a range suited to those in their mid-20s or older. It includes products designed to balance, exfoliate and also repair adult skin.

3. Murad Blemish Control

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The goal of Murad’s Blemish Control system? To control oil, not eliminate it. For our skin to thrive, we need a health dose of oils and lipids to protect our skin barrier. It’s when these oils are excessive or unbalanced that issues can occur. Murad’s system works overtime to assist the skin in shedding excess dirt and oils, and ensuring a balanced production of skin-nourishing lipids. In particular, it’s InvisiScar Resurfacing Treatment is a wonder for post-breakout dark marks

4. MediK8 Blemish Prone

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Cosmeceutical-grade brand, Medik8 has some of the best clarifying and balancing products that I’ve tried. It’s range is heavy on active ingredients but also includes options like mattifiers and clay masks for those who want alternatives to acids and retinols. It’s hero product is the Press & Clear toner which is a gentle release salicylic acid which is kinder to the skin barrier than other salicylic acids.

5. Paula’s Choice Clear and Resist

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Paula’s Choice is one of the most trusted skincare brands when it comes to targeting specific skin concerns. It has two ranges designed for oil skin. The Resist range is for normal to oily skin – think of this as your range for skin types that suffer the odd breakout. The Clear range on the other hand is perfect for those with oilier skin who may have more persistent breakouts. And within the Clear range, there is a regular strength and also an extra strength system.

6. Alpha-H

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A brand built around the power of alpha-hydroxy acids, it makes sense that Alph-H has one of the best acne-prone skincare systems on the market. It’s range of blemish controlling skincare include options for oily skin, breakouts and also peri- and menopausal skin. Try the Micro Super Scrub if you’re a fan of a physical exfoliant. But note, this particular range is heavy on peeling acids, so you will need to ensure a sunscreen is part of our daily routine.

7. CeraVe Blemish Control

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At a more accessible price point, CeraVe has three products designed to assist with acne-prone skin. Identifiable by their teal-toned iteration of the CeraVe branding, there’s a Blemish Control cleanser, retinol toner and spot-treating blemish gel. As a dermatologist recommended brand, these products are an easy place to start if some of the other systems are too intensive or complicated.

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Whether you’re searching for ‘the one’ or just want to upgrade your cabinet, we’ve rounded up the 16 best face moisturisers for every skin type below.

Best moisturisers for dry skin

Tatcha The Dewy Skin Cream

More than just a moisturiser, Tatcha’s hero formula floods the skin with squalane, ceramides, algae and Japanese ferments for a plump, bouncy finish. It’s the perfect way to prep for makeup, too.

Drunk Elephant La La Retro Whipped Cream

This formula is rich in fatty acids, thanks to ceramides and cold pressed oils that have been whipped into a fluffy cream consistency. It’s very nourishing, but still surprisingly lightweight on the skin.

Cosmetics 27 Baume 27

Cosmetics 27 is an ‘in the know’ beauty brand, and its Baume 27 moisturiser is much-loved by editors. The formula is plush, creamy and rich in plant extracts that deeply hydrate while reducing the signs of ageing.

Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2

An iconic face cream that repairs and fortifies the barrier, promoting soft, healthy skin while reducing the risk of moisture loss. It’s packed with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids to smooth, replenish and nourish.

Best moisturisers for oily or acne-prone skin

Biologique Recherche Creme Dermopurifiante

Made specifically for oily skin and those prone to congestion, this moisturiser regulates sebum production for clear, even skin. While it’s purifying, it still affords lightweight hydration.

Go-To Very Lightweight Moisturiser

A plump, bouncy gel that hydrates without the stickiness. It’s fresh and oil-free, with a matte finish that’s really nice under makeup.

Best moisturisers for sensitive skin

La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume B5+

Cicaplast is viral, and for good reason. The french pharmacy staple has a rich, cushiony texture that immediately soothes dry or stressed skin. The hero ingredients include thermal spring water, prebiotics for barrier strength and panthenol to soothe and rehydrate.

Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream

Few moisturisers are as iconic as UFC. The formulation is simple with universal appeal — avocado oil, squalane, glycerin — while it’s free from parabens and fragrance. It’s hydrating and comforting but weightless, the perfect formula for every complexion.

Tower 28 SOS Daily Barrier Recovery Cream

This is gentle, soothing and non-greasy. It’s safe for breakout-prone skin, eczema-prone skin, plus those who experience to redness or dehydration. Texture-wise, it’s rich and comforting but very quickly absorbed.

Best luxury moisturisers

La Mer Creme de la Mer

Moisturisers don’t get more famous than this. Formulated with the iconic La Mer Miracle Broth ferment, the superlative formula soothes and conditions for soft, even-toned, luminous skin.

Emma Lewisham Supernatural Face Creme Riche

This silky cream deeply moisturises the skin, stimulating collagen production for a plump, lifted look. It’s rich in peptides and humectants for firmness and long-lasting moisture, plus shea butter for a dewy glow.

Rationale No. 1 The Creme

This is a deeply restorative face cream for daytime use to protect against environmental damage. It’s velvety and hydrating, with a dewy finish for that signature Rationale glow.

Augustinus Bader The Rich Cream

Hollywood’s favourite moisturiser, The Rich Creme is considered a cult formula thanks to the inclusion of TFC8, a patented ingredient complex that improves communication between cells. What this means is a visible improvement on all markers of skin health, including even tone, smoother texture and reduced fine lines.

CHANEL Hydra Beauty Creme

Light and refreshing, Hydra Beauty feels like a tall glass of water for normal to dry and dehydrated skin. Camellia extracts increase moisture content, while the softening gel-cream texture will leave your complexion glowing with health.

Best drugstore moisturisers

Weleda Skin Food

If you want a balmy, occlusive cream that’s reasonably priced, Skin Food is it. Almost like an ointment in terms of texture, Skin Food soothes rough, dry skin while preventing water loss. A tiny amount goes a long way, too.

Embroylisse Lait-Cremè Concentre

A French pharmacy staple that’s loved by makeup artists for its ability to hydrate the skin for a smooth, plumed canvas under makeup. It’s also very simple in its formulation, so great for reactive skin types.

The post In the name of hydration, 16 of the best moisturisers to add in your beauty cabinets appeared first on RUSSH.

In the event of the latter, I have a handful of products I call on to speed up the process – that is, prevention, treatment and then healing. Keep scrolling to read.

First up, how to prevent a breakout

When it comes to breakouts, prevention is better than treatment. This involves ensuring that there’s no cellular build-up, controlled oil production and that you have a balanced microbiome. Here are some favourites to do just that.

Emma Lewisham Supernatural Blemish Face Serum

Emma Lewisham is doing great things in the world of skincare, but the Supernatural Blemish Serum has impressed me the most. It comes in a dual-chamber pump pack that dispenses a world-first patented live probiotic (Micrococcus luteus Q24) to crowd out the acne bacteria while supporting a healthy microbiome. It’s an intelligent, gentle and effective way to prevent breakouts.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

While it’s never good to over-exfoliate, a build-up of cells is one of the biggest risk factors when it comes to clogged pores. P50 is a liquid exfoliator – an iconic one, at that! – that dissolves the ‘glue’ holding these old cells together, allowing them to be swiftly removed. Yes it stinks like vinegar, but it works. Inside you’ll find Alpha-Hydroxy Acids, Beta-Hydroxy Acids and plant extracts like onion (yes, really) to brighten, clarify and refine. It’s not the stuff of legend for no reason.

iS Clinical Active Serum

This is another liquid exfoliating serum hailed as a silver bullet for breakout-prone skin. I personally love it; it has a cool, tingly feeling and definitely helps to prevent spots from forming. The heavy-lifter is White Willow Bark, which is a plant-derived form of Salicylic Acid. What it does is dissolve oil within a pore, meaning fewer breakouts and unified skin tone.

How to reduce breakout overnight

So despite your best efforts, you’ve broken out. While a very normal part of life, it’s also fine to want to speed up the healing process. Here are my top picks to do so overnight.

Starface Hydro-Stars

Hydrocolloid dressings hail from the medical field, but have been adapted by beauty as a means to treat pimples. I love these ones from Starface as they grip the skin well and poke some fun at beauty standards. They work to both protect the ‘wound’ and absorb any excess fluid, as well.

Biba de Sousa The Zinc Mask

Sulfur is one of my all-time favourite ingredients to reduce redness and swelling, especially where breakouts are concerned. Any mask will do, but I swear by this one from Biba de Sousa. Leave it on a spot for 10 minutes once per day and it will reduce in size/severity before your eyes.

Dermalogica Deep Breakout Liquid Patch

I mentioned this products earlier today on Instagram, and am including because I think it’s genius. The formula works to create a shield of sorts on the skin, while infusing it with sulfur (again) and niacinamide to bring down redness and swelling.

Omnilux Contour LED Mask

If you are a bonafide skincare junkie you might want to know about LED light. LED stands for light emitting diode, and is a proven clinical technology that improves on countless skin concerns like discolouration, lines and acne. Omnilux is a market leader and the at-home mask works really well. It utilises red light, which is known to reduce inflammation, boost collagen production and improve skin clarity.

How to deal with the aftermath

The dark  marks that appear after a breakout are often more complicated to treat than the breakout itself. This is because when the skin undergoes ‘trauma’, melanocyte production turns on, resulting in a red, brown or purple-ish scar. But with patience and the right topical, you can reduce their appearance significantly.

Allies of Skin Mandelic Pigmentation Corrector Night Serum

This contains mandelic and salicylic acids, as well as niacinamide, bakuchiol and other brighteners to reduce the look of dark spots with time. It’s lightweight, hard working and surprisingly hydrating for such an active formula. I also find that Allies of Skin is a trusted brand; everything I’ve used (including this) has afforded a visible difference. Use it at night under a moisturiser.

Avène Cicalfate+ Restorative Protective Cream

This is a simple salve from French skincare brand Avène that soothes and protects fragile or broken skin. It contains antibacterial copper and zinc, plus thermal water to replenish and promote healing. It’s perfect on redness, or any spot you’ve accidentally picked at that now requires TLSC.

Watch Emily’s breakout tutorial, below

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